Before starting, collect all required tools and materials. Verify that you have the correct pipe sizes and fittings for your project. Check that solvent cement is within its expiration date and stored properly (not frozen or separated).

Measure the required pipe length accurately, accounting for insertion depth into fittings. Mark the cutting point clearly with a permanent marker. Cut the pipe squarely using a pipe cutter (preferred) or fine-toothed hacksaw.

Remove all burrs and rough edges from the cut end using a deburring tool, half-round file, or sharp knife. Create a slight chamfer (15°) on the outside edge to facilitate entry and spread cement evenly.

Clean both the pipe end (outer surface) and fitting socket (inner surface) with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth. Remove all dirt, dust, moisture, and grease. Contamination is the #1 cause of joint failures.

Insert the pipe into the fitting socket without cement to verify proper fit. The pipe should enter smoothly with slight interference. Mark the insertion depth on the pipe using a permanent marker.

For pipes 50mm diameter and larger, primer is recommended to soften the pipe surface and improve cement penetration. Apply primer to both the pipe end (outer surface) and fitting socket (inner surface) using the applicator.

Allow primer to dry for 10-15 seconds until tacky but not fully dry. Work quickly—primer has a short working window before it loses effectiveness.

Apply a thin, even layer of solvent cement to the pipe end first, covering the full insertion depth area. Then apply cement to the inside of the fitting socket. Work quickly—cement begins setting within 20-30 seconds of application.

Immediately insert the pipe into the fitting with a slight twisting motion (1/4 turn). This helps spread cement evenly and eliminates air pockets. Push firmly until the pipe reaches the marked insertion depth.

Hold the joint firmly for 30 seconds to prevent push-out. As solvent cement reacts with the pipe material, it creates gas pressure that can push the pipe out if not held.

Immediately wipe away any excess cement from around the joint using a clean rag. A properly made joint will show a small, even bead of cement around the entire circumference.

Do not move, stress, or disturb the joint during initial curing. Minimum handling time is 15-20 minutes. Allow 24 hours before pressure testing or putting the system into service.

After the full curing period, fill the system slowly with water, allowing air to escape through high points. Visually inspect all joints for any signs of leakage before pressurizing.

Apply test pressure equal to 1.5 times the operating pressureand maintain for minimum 2 hours. Inspect all joints carefully. Any pressure drop indicates a leak that must be located and repaired.